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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.